Will the area under consideration be subject to heavy traffic? Is a sound barrier required (as in a condo)? How easy will it be to clean? Will the area be subjected to moisture as in a kitchen or basement? Does anyone in the home have allergy or asthma issues (carpeting is not the best choice)? Does the floor need to be slip resistant? What is the warranty period, cost, and durability of the material? Is the new floor suitable for the type of subfloor?

Check out the type of glues and sealers used as they can off gas chemicals that can affect some one who is sensitive. There are now materials available that have less off gassing of these harmful chemicals. Ask questions! Research is paramount here!

The main categories of flooring available are:

1 – resilient flooring, which is sheet or tile flooring. Common types are cushion, vinyl, linoleum, rubber and cork.
This flooring product is fairly inexpensive, is easy to maintain, comfortable to stand on, and easy to install. Sheet flooring is installed using adhesives. Try to get adhesives that have the lowest amount of VOC’s as possible. The negatives about tile flooring are the tiles can curl, minor scratches, holes or tears are quite visible, needing to be replaced before it gets worse.

2 – carpeting is not a good choice for bathrooms, kitchens or basements (moisture areas). It is great for bedrooms because it is warm, soft on the feet and is good for absorbing sound. People with allergies should not have carpeting in their bedrooms because they spend eight hours of their day in this room. Carpets can trap dirt, dust mites, mold and bacteria. The harder the floor surface, the better for allergy sufferers. There are also carpets on the market today that off gas less harmful compounds, than in the past. A shorter pile (eg. Berber), is more durable and harbors less pollutants. Cost depends on the quality of carpet and underpad. It is important to get a very good quality underpad, as this will increase the longevity of the carpet.

3 – wood flooring comes in many widths, colors, thicknesses and grades. Some hardwoods are birch, maple, beech, and oak. Softer woods include pine, fir and hemlock. They come in strip flooring, plank, parquet, and laminates. Most new hardwood today is pre-finished and has UV-cured polyurethane layers to protect the finish. Pre-finished flooring prevents off gassing of chemicals into the atmosphere versus unfinished flooring that can have strong chemical smells lurking in the home for months, after they are stained and varnished. Laminates are usually cheaper than real wood, but wear very well. They are a good alternative to hardwood. Hardwood will increase the value of the home. It is easy to care for, looks beautiful and lasts a long time.

4 – ceramic tiles come in many sizes. They can be glazed or unglazed. Glazed tiles are more slippery when wet and are not recommended for bathrooms. Ceramics are very cold and hard and can be less comfortable to stand on for long periods. Ceramics wear very well and are easy to clean. White or very light colored ceramics are not practical, as they always look dirty. They can crack easily if a hard object is dropped on them and can be noisy for anyone living below. This type of floor is an excellent choice for people with allergies. Water based sealers and grout are better as they have fewer emissions. Ceramics tiles can last a very long time resulting in cost savings.

Most people have a mixture of the above flooring types in their homes. It is worth putting a little extra money into good quality flooring as this can help prevent problems down the road.

As we grew older, those decorations changed. Pictures of fairies and pirate ships turned to posters of rock stars and heaps of teddy bears turned into heaps of clothes and equipment. The spaces that we own grow – from rooms we shift to houses, offices and even buildings that we call our own and want to stamp with the different flavors of who we are.
Decorations can mean anything – from wallpaper to seasonal decorations to different styles which are carried through our entire homes. Tuscan houses, for example, tend to have crumbling stone walls, marble flooring and wrought iron accessories. But these different aspects of interior decoration mean more than simply choosing a theme because these walls, floors and accessories all contribute to the feeling that one gets when you walk into these homes. The themes in houses can make everything seem calm and peaceful, bright and vibrant, wise and historic with antiques – the list is endless.
Wherever we live, we have the beauty of mountains, city lights or sunsets. Yet, when it comes to decorating our own homes, people sometimes fail to see the need for beauty and tranquility in their everyday surroundings. Making your spaces a place that reflects you can be a daunting task and for years, professional interior decorators have helped people make their homes attractive. But who can capture the essence of you and your family better than you yourself? Figuring out how to make your home a reflection of your life requires patience, planning and a good dose of compromise.
Here are three things that you should keep in mind when you are redecorating your home or a room:
1. Decide on the mood you want to evoke in the room before you start decorating.
2.Consider the decor and style of your home (make sure it doesn’t conflict with what you already have).
3.Make sure that the colors you choose are compatible with the fixtures in the room.
The need for new paint on the walls, window treatments or buying new furniture can all be justified by our desire to differentiate ourselves and have our loves ones – the people that enter our space – get a feeling of who we really are.

Airborne Sound – You are probably aware that sound travels through the air in waves. It is at the point when the noise waves hits a surface of some kind, that the noise is absorbed and there is a reduction in sound. Therefore, wall insulation is good for reducing the level of sound. The more insulation the better. There are insulating panels available which have an inner layer of mineral wood. The outer layer is made of plasterboard, and these panels are attached to the existing plasterwork and can dramatically reduce the noise levels within a home. Acoustic padding can also be used to line walls and ceilings to reduce airborne sound.

Impact Noise – This is when sound travels through a material or object that does not absorb any of the noise whatsoever. The material actually conducts the sound. One such material is a wooden floor. One way of reducing the sound here would be to use fiberglass between the joists and good quality, thick plasterboard on the ceiling to reduce the travel of the noise to upstairs rooms (if the wooden floor is ground level).

Flanking is a mixture of airborne and impact noise. It is noise that reaches you indirectly. It could be open spaces such as corridors, chimneys or unsealed gaps within the home. Some useful ways of soundproofing are to use sound reducing acoustic layers under the carpet. Tiles are available from any retail sources. Sheep Wool Underlay is an Eco friendly product that can reduce noise by 21bd and is ideal for use under timber floors.

Another way to reduce noise within the home is to use rubber flooring that can reduce noise by around 20 db. You could even have a floating floor – that is you could float another floor above the original and use acoustic plasterboard to minimize noise.

Ceilings can be sound proofed again by using plasterboard of good quality, or using two layers. Alternatively, a false ceiling can be built.

Windows and doors are generally now double glazed and can reduce noise from outside by around 24bd. Make sure there are no gaps round windows as this will allow sound to travel and be extremely cold as well!!

White noise is also a factor to consider, this comes from things like televisions and street noises from traffic. Sound proofing walls will reduce this sound but not eliminate it.

In a modern world we have to be realistic about increased noise pollution and apply the correct method of insulation to successfully reduce the noise.

Now You CAN!

If you thought that having a family meant putting your decorating skills and ideas on the back burner then you just haven’t been opening your eyes to the stylish ideas designers use to liven up their own homes and their client’s homes, even with children (and pets) around!

AMAZING MATERIALS

Yes, choosing the right material can make all the difference when furnishing a home for a family.

Have you always loved leather? Well it’s not only great for minor spills that are quickly wiped off, it also wears well, even gaining a beautiful patina with time and use. Leather does not collect pet hair as a cloth couch or chair would, and crumbs and dirt will wipe off easily.

If you prefer fabric upholstery, think of luxurious Ultrasuede. Sophisticated enough for even the most formal rooms, it’s looks belie the easy care of the material. You won’t deal with fading or staining the way you are accustomed to with cotton, and many stains will come off quite easily with a damp cloth.

Do you have real ruffians running around? You can always count on slipcovers if you need to. Many decorators have used white or cream slipcovers to good effect, although you may consider a stripe or other pattern to disguise everyday wear. And because you can clean them thoroughly by removing them you do not have to be too concerned about occasional messes. Slipcovers also work well on fancy dining room chairs and can be removed for adult-only dinner parties.

On the other hand, try to stay away from delicate materials like silks or velvets which stain easily and are difficult to clean.

THOUGHTFUL CHOICES

If you have small children you may also consider choosing soft furnishings, like ottomans, to replace hazards such as hard edged coffee tables.

Area rugs can be great for keeping light colored carpets in good shape, but be certain they rest flat so children are not prone to trip over them. Selecting heavy rugs or using a special padding underneath to reduce movement would be especially recommended when using rugs on hard, slippery surfaces.

When choosing wood furnishings, light or dark, be sure it has a protective clear coat so that marks and spills do not ruin the finish.

GIVING KIDS THEIR OWN SPACE

Would your children really mind an ‘adult’ space in the home? If you make most of the home child-friendly, then it is not outside of reason to create one area specifically for adult entertaining or relaxing. Giving children a small area within the adult room where they can read books or sit at a small table for quiet games will teach them to respect and take care of nice things. This, along with making reasonable choices for the rest of the home, allows all in the family to enjoy their surroundings and each other.

Studies show that the air in our homes should be changed ten times per day – anything less causes build up of dangerous pollutants. Below are some tips to help avoid “sick-house” syndrome. First, open the windows (just a crack is sufficient) when possible, and check to make sure that all vents are unblocked.

Another problem that lack of ventilation can cause is mold and mildew. This is found to be a danger not only to your health, but it can also damage the structure of your house. Especially in rooms such as kitchens and bathrooms, where humidity is likely to be high, proper ventilation is essential. The use of fans in these areas are helpful.

Also, check areas such as the attic, and underneath floors for proper air circulation. If you have a humidity problem upstairs, it probably means that the attic or roof space needs more ventilation. Be aware that some types of flooring can cause structural damage if there is not adequate ventilation beneath it.

We all want our homes to smell nice, and a clean, well-ventilated house will. But unpleasant odors happen, and we must not become overzealous in using artificial scents that add more pollutants to the air. Aerosols, in particular, are not eco-friendly and often contain nasty additives. Do not fall into the trap of trying to create a “fresh smelling” home by adding more chemicals to our already polluted air.

You can easily make your own room deodorizer by sprinkling a few drops of vanilla or essential oil on a cotton ball. Place this in a small open container to prevent the oil or alcohol from damaging your furniture. Other natural room fresheners to use include baking soda, white vinegar, fresh or dried herbs, or even a bowl of fresh apples. And, if you like the scent of fresh flowers, treat yourself to the real thing instead of using an artificial spray. Try to keep chemical-laced cleaners, and perfumed products to a minimum, and use natural products as much as possible.

If you or your loved ones suffer from unexplained drowsiness, headaches or a general malaise, try getting fresher air through the house. Your family and your home with breath easier and avoid the “sick-house” syndrome.

Contrary to what you may have heard, the finish doesn’t take days and days to dry. It’s quite simple actually. Go to your favorite local home improvement store, Lowe’s, Menard’s, Home Depot or other. Rent a sander. You’ll need a drum sander, a belt sander or both. They will explain to you how to use the machine and tell you what kind of sand paper to purchase. They will also tell you what kind of stain and finish to get. Make sure you also pick up some dust masks because you will have saw dust everywhere.

The sanders are very easy to use. They’re a bit on the loud side. The key is to keep it moving at all times. Do not stop or you will get a divot in your wood. Think of it like a clothes iron. You need to keep it moving or you will burn your clothes. Same deal with the sander. It creates a lot of heat and you will burn or dent your floors if you hesitate in one place too long.

You will feel like a Zamboni driver smoothing out your surface. Word of caution, you do need to maintain control of the machine at all times. It is self propelled, like a lawn mower or a basset hound on a leash. When you power it up, hold on to the machine tightly. Don’t be afraid of it and after a few passes, you’ll start to even have fun.

Redoing your floors is like redoing your fingernails. First you need to remove the old finish, basecoat, color, and top coat. You may opt to forgo the color (stain) and just use the nature color of the wood. You will still need to apply a finish to it.

There are basically two types of floor finishes: one is oil-based and the other is water-based polyurethane. Oil-based is available in a satin, semi-gloss or gloss finish. Satin works well on floors because it hides small flaws and lets the natural beauty of the wood show without a bright shine. Oil-based also produces a warm amber look that gives you the traditional glow of wood floors. Water-based polyurethane dries clear and resists yellowing. Water-based also dries quicker.

Make sure you let each coat thoroughly dry before applying the next; same as you would nail polish. Give your floor at least 24-36 hours before moving furniture back on it. It will continue to harden in the first couple of weeks.

Don’t be overwhelmed. Instead of looking at refinishing your hardwood floors as a humongous job, look at it as giving your room a manicure, one step at a time. You’ll also save yourself as much as $1,000 by doing it yourself.

Regardless of what you call it, this type of interior design will center upon the use of natural materials. The first thing you’ll want to do is evaluate how you can add more natural wood, metal, rock, and leather to your room.

When it comes to furniture, Western style is most often large and bulky, but simple in design and structure. Look for lots of bare wood. Fabrics tend to Native American prints, Cowboy prints, or outdoorsy-kinds of prints. If busy prints are not your cup of tea, consider matte-finish leather, denim, suede, or nubbly weaves.

Colors should be those found in nature, such as rich browns, dark greens, dark reds, golds, etc. Other colors might include rock gray, metal black, and cream.

Add Western motifs such as knickknacks, blankets, wall hangings, pillows, and more. This would include motifs such as cowboys, saddles, horses, Native American crafts, wild animals found in forests and mountains, rivers, wildflowers, etc.

Older, vintage items will go well with Western home decorating too. Look for bold-colored quilts, old saddle blankets, barrels, weathered farm tools, and so on.

If you’re crafty (or know someone who is), you can really let your imagination run wild when it comes to cowboy (or cowgirl!) home decorating. Use old horseshoes as candle holders on your wall or as bookends. Take bandannas and sew them into pillows, quilt squares, or even lampshade covers. “Plant” dried flowers in old Mason jars and scatter them around on your side tables and bookcases.

Your floors in a western style home should also be natural… preferably hardwood or recycled plank flooring. But they could also be made from flagstone. Be sure to scatter western-style area rugs around though, because natural floors can be cold!

If you can, don’t use window treatments… just leave them bare, especially if you have a great view of the mountains or other natural settings. But, if you must use window coverings, keep them simple, such as plain valances, straight panels, or shutters.

Lighting needs to go with the western style of your home decorating too. Vintage lamps are great, but you can use almost any lamps made from wood and metal. Lampshades made of stretched rawhide will really add to that cowboy feel. But the rule here is plain and functional.

Other decorative details might include beading, fringe, twig accents, nail head designs, metal drawer pulls and doorknobs, and anything made from logs. Pottery and stoneware will also enhance the look.

So, do you see how easy it can be to add western and cowboy touches to your home decorating? Whether you go “whole hog” into it or just add a few touches here and there is up to you. Whatever changes you make, though, are sure to give your home decorating a whole new look.

Perhaps he has found a new way to test your threshold, or maybe he believes that urinating where he should not is a great new sport to partake or maybe, just maybe, this is his new hobby. Whichever the case may be, and whatever your cat’s reason for being naughty is, do try to convince him to do it, if he must, off and away from your carpets.

Knowing cats, however, your cat will most likely not be dissuaded very readily because cats tend to be stubborn creatures. And if this assessment is correct, you will have to learn how to clean up after him because, you know well, he will not clean up after himself. While this may be bad news, you may be removing cat urine from carpets for quite a while, so you might as well do it correctly and as thoroughly as possible.

There is some good news to deliver. And the good news is that you that removing cat urine from carpets does not have to be as difficult as you might think. Just do what specialists do when removing cat urine in carpets with the following easy steps, and it does not even matter if the stains are old and dry or new and wet:

Step 1: Find the areas where the stains are visible or where the odors are evident. If you cannot see the stains but you can smell them, use a stain detection black light.

Step 2: Put in a new bag into your vacuum cleaner to maximize its suction power.

Step 3: Thoroughly vacuum the soiled areas and then generously apply a mixture of 1/3 cup of white vinegar, 2/3 cup warm water, 1/4 cup mouthwash (any brand that contains alcohol) and 1/4 cup of dish washing detergent. Let it all stand for about 45 minutes.

Step 4: Gently scrub the entire area in a circular motion with a soft clean brush and soak up the remaining moisture with clean white paper towels. Colorful patterned paper towels may bleed color onto your carpet and create stains of a different nature.

Step 5: Generously apply warm water and let it stand for 15 minutes then soak it up with a clean towel or a rag.

Step 6: Thoroughly vacuum the entire area and sprinkle with baking soda. Let it stand for a couple of hours and then vacuum it all up.

Your carpet should now be clean and smelling fresh. Congratulations! You did it!

You have just learned all about removing cat urine from carpets and you did it without any abrasive chemicals.

Your second step is to find the center point of the room. You can accomplish this by using a tape measure and a chalk line. Measure the width of the room at each end and make a mark exactly half way across the room splitting that end of the room in half. Go to the other end of the room and do exactly the same. Secure the end of the chalk line to the first mark with a small nail or if you have a friend working with you have them hold the end of the chalk line very securely to the first mark. Stretch the chalk line across the room to the other mark and pull the line as tight as you can and then hold it securely on the second mark you made which is dividing the width of the room in half opposite the first mark. Lift up on the chalk line and let it snap back to the floor leaving a nice straight line of chalk which divides the width of the room exactly in half. Go through the exact same process dividing the length of the room in half and snap a chalk line which will divide the length of the room exactly in half. It does not matter the size of the room, this chalk line process must be used as you need to start your first tile exactly in the center of the room and work out from there. This process should have left you with a clean, dry and flat surface with 2 chalk lines that are 90 degrees apart from each other or a simpler way of saying would be that they fit exactly on corner of the first piece of tile.

The third step is to start installing the tile onto the floor. Take your first piece of tile and turn it over to the thin paper side. You will notice that there are arrows on the paper all pointing in the same direction. The reason for this is so you get all the tiles pointing in the same direction during installation. Keep this in mind as you install each square that before you peal the paper off the back that you check the direction of the arrows first and rotate the tile accordingly. The first tile that you will put down will go exactly where the chalk lines cross in the middle of the room. Put the corner of the tile exactly on the crossing point while lining up each edge with the chalk line and press the tile down. The positioning of the first tile is very important and at this point can be shifted slightly to make it exactly line up with the chalk lines. Take a bakers wooden rolling pin and roll and press down on the tile as you roll over it to secure it to the floor. Be careful not to shift the tile while you are doing this. Now take each new tile keeping in mind the direction of the arrows and put it tightly up against the first tile on the floor and carefully set it down. Roll over each tile with the roller securing it to the floor keeping all edges tight and lined up. Do not rush this process as the tighter the fit the better the finished job will look.

The fourth and final step will be cutting the edges to fit up tightly against the walls. For this you will want to have a large thin board to use as a cutting board, a sharp construction knife, a metal straight edge and a measuring tape for all the odd corners you might run into around cabinetry and doors. Use each tile as a template sliding it up to the wall with the paper still on it keeping in mind the direction of the arrows. At this point the arrows need to be pointing in the opposite direction of what they normally go. The reason for that is when you measure and cut the piece off the finished piece you will be rotating it back so that the cut edge goes up against the wall and will be covered up by molding. At this point all the arrows will be going in the same direction. Work your way around the room taking your time with each piece keeping it tight and rolling them out and securing them tightly to the floor. While you are doing this process you will find areas where the adhesive is on the surface of the tile and this can easily be removed with a cotton swab and some finger nail polish remover. Replace the molding around the room and you have a new floor.

Regular vacuuming and spot treatment will improve the quality and life span of your carpets and upholstery.

Since chemicals are hard on the fibers of carpets and upholstery, you should always start with the weakest solution before moving on. Start with clean water and move onto a mild solution of liquid soap (never use laundry detergent) or an oxygen based cleaner which usually works well on organic stains (food, animal, blood) before using chemical spot removers.

Western Regional Pollution Prevention Network (WRPPN) cautions professional janitors and cleaners to avoid using chemicals as much as possible.

Carpet spot removal products are made with some of the most dangerous chemicals and should always be applied when wearing gloves and in an area with good ventilation.

Test the cleaning products for carpets or upholstery in a hidden spot to make certain it won’t stain. Place a white paper towel or cloth on the tested area to check for color transfer. If the cleaner is safe apply a small amount of spot removal product to a clean, white cloth and work your way from the OUTSIDE of the stain inwards. Keep at it only using a stronger solution when you are no longer getting results with water or mild detergent.

Upholstery stains can also be treated with a 3% Hydrogen Peroxide solution that can be left on and dabbed. You do not need to rinse. Hydrogen Peroxide works equally well on vinyl furniture.

When the stain is removed rinse with clean water and blot the excess out. Replace towels when they are too wet to absorb anymore water. Be careful to avoid over wetting as it can also damage your carpet or cause mildew in your carpet or upholstered furniture.

Taking the time to treat spills before they’re stains will go a long way in keeping your carpets and upholstery looking as good as new!