Laminate flooring is a material that is manufactured to give the appearance of real wood without the hefty price tag. The most economical choice for homeowners on a budget, laminate flooring features synthetic materials that are accompanied by a number of benefits. Laminate flooring is generally water resistant and features several layers of material to provide protection to the structure of your floor. There are many brands of laminate flooring and most quality products offer generous warranty. Being prone to chipping and the inability to be repaired are among the disadvantages of laminate flooring. Generally if laminate flooring becomes damaged then the entire board must be replaced.

Real wood flooring, on the other hand, uses authentic wood to act as the home’s floor. Genuine hardwood floors are much more expensive than their laminate competitors, but offer several advantages if you can afford their higher price tag. Solid wood flooring, for example, offers the ability to sand the material numerous times. This allows for the easy removal and repair of surface problems or cosmetic imperfections. Wood flooring can be repaired multiple times without the need for replacement. At the same time, wood flooring is very susceptible to cracks and may easily react to the environment. If damp, wood tends to swell and may even suffer from rotting if not properly treated. Wood flooring can be difficult to keep in good condition, but there are products to help maintain its beauty. These types of wood flooring restoration products can easily be found online or at a local home improvement center.

The decision to purchase either laminate or authentic wood floors ultimately comes down to a simple case of economics. Solid wood floors can add significant value to a home but come with a hefty cost themselves. Laminate flooring, on the other hand, gives you the look of authentic wood flooring without the price. Not necessarily increasing the value of a home in the same way as a real wood floor does, laminate flooring lends beauty and affordability to every room of the house.

One way to learn to appreciate oriental rugs to their fullest is to study the designs and use them to build your own oriental-style rug. Many of the design elements have significance, and it is known that in some regions it is believed that no rug can be perfect as “Only God is perfect”. We can have our own values and ideas, but the thought behind this is profound. Although we always strive for perfection, we know that all too easily mistakes may be made. Once we know this, we will not fault others for their mistakes and recognize that in our best works there will still be imperfections.

In oriental rugs the color shading may be variable as die lots change. So rather than planning a rug with all colors in ample supply, one may choose to vary the die lots and get that extra richness that comes from slight differences in shading, which adds to the luminosity and color interest.

Start by taking some graph paper and copying smaller and larger designs from a rug. It is best to start by building the border as it allows one to take several small designs and study the variations of each design and how they are fitted together in a pattern.

Oriental rugs may have several borders, some narrow and others broader. The designs within these borders are sometimes similar, but often a new element is introduced in each border.

Oriental rugs often use medallions grouped in a pattern against a different background, sometimes contrasting in color, at other times in a complementary color.

If you are interested in this craft, try to determine what kind of oriental rugs you find most appealing and research the country of origin, the design elements and the color combinations.

The wool used in the original carpets often consisted of camel hair, but excellent results may be obtained by using sheep’s wool. Wool from New Zealand and Australia is often used for this purpose. They are being manufactured in beautiful rich colors.

This type of rug can be woven, but can also be made using special canvass that determines the number of knots per inch. The finer the wool is, the finer the canvas should be, resulting in greater the number of knots per inch and usually a shorter pile. When making a rug on canvas, one makes rows of loops of equal length. When the rug is finished, all the loops are cut and a beautiful rich pile reveals itself. This makes a great difference in the color as the pile reflects light differently. There is some skill involved in creating loops of equal length, but this is fairly quickly learned. One would start by measuring each loops, but eventually the eye is sufficient, and one can just check from time to time to ensure the length is still uniform.

It would be advisable to undertake a small rug as a first project, or to start with a fairly coarse pattern on a coarse canvas. However, the real beauty of an oriental rug is in the fineness of its design and the closeness of the knots.

So we read the manufacturer’s warranty and notice that it says to vacuum often. Daily might be the frequency in the high traffic areas. But who has time any more to spend maintaining carpets on a daily basis? The only time you see people vacuum that frequently is in the hotel and motel industry.

Rarely does one actually see the carpets being replaced at the hotel and motel industry unless there is a major remodeling project happening with new color schemes to match. So it would serve one well to learn from the hospitality business.

How do we usually buy carpet? In most cases it comes with the home already installed. It will either be a newly built or a previously owned re-sale home. If a new home was built, if you are in the beginning stages of construction, you have a choice to upgrade to the better carpet and padding offered. Or you can choose the cheapest carpet known to mankind commonly referred to as ‘builder’s grade’ materials which also includes the cheapest, thinnest carpet pad also known as ‘FHA grade’ 2 lb. rebond.

Sure the carpet is fuzzy and comes in a light color and the padding might as well be called foam because it easily crushes to the sub-floor when any weight is applied on the carpet’s surface. After all, carpet is just carpet and pad is just pad, right? WRONG. Once again the old adage “You get what you pay for” still rings true.

DuPont, one of the top four major fiber producers, conducted a study years ago about the behaviors of the consumer as related to the way they make a purchase decision when it comes to picking carpet. I suppose human behavior still has not evolved that much since. Please note that the following results are not a misprint.

They rank from number one to number five in order:

1. Color
2. Color
3. Color
4. Texture
5. Price

While not disclosed, the first three might have been trying to color match the hard surface flooring like tile, hardwood flooring or stone. The second might be for the paint in a given room and the last color match to compliment the home’s other furnishings such as window treatments, and furniture.

Texture refers to the ‘feel’ also known as the hand of the carpet referring to how it feels when you touch the carpet by hand. It would also take into account the weight of carpet measured in ounces. For example, a carpet weighing 32 oz. per square inch has more carpet fibers then say a 16 ounce carpet. A good way to test this principle is to go to carpet a retailer and ask to see two different swatches.

For example with all things being equal, such as the same Carpet Fiber Producer manufactured by DuPont, same carpet fibers milled at Shaw Industries, same color dye lot, etcetera, you can perform this simple comparison test side by side.

Simply form your fingers like a claw and push directly straight down from top to the bottom of the fibers using your fingertips only. You should notice an immediate difference in carpet density. It will also reflect in the price per square yard. The difference is the number of stitches per square inch. On a much more dense carpet, it will be difficult to see down to the primary backing where the carpet is stitched in.

Here’s the benefit:
If there are more carpet pile fibers, then each carpet fiber actually supports one another side by side on all four corners of the fiber forming a nap. The less pile there is opens up the potential damage for gritty soil to ‘cut’ the fibers at the base of the pile where the primary backing is. This cutting effect comes with every step, pivot and turn on the carpet nap’s surface. This also causes thinning, pitting and marring of fibers making carpets dull in appearance even after restorative cleaning.

It is also worth mentioning that 60 percent of the soil that falls into the carpet can be removed safely and effectively with routine dry vacuuming of high traffic areas such as halls, stairs, entry ways and traffic paths in front of furniture. This single process alone can greatly extend the performance and life use of the carpet. Remember the hospitality industry housekeepers?

The second most fatal mistake a carpet purchaser can make is ignoring the quality of the carpet pad. Padding for the subfloor is like the spine of the carpet. It provides support to aid in preventing indentations left by heavy furniture legs after re-arranging a room.

It also has the job of holding water like a sponge whenever a copious amount water floods the room such as a broken water pipe. It provides the comfort under our footing so our feet and backs don’t ache. This is the one place you don’t have to worry about the color matching as the carpet will cover all the pad.

Pad is also measured in ounces and pounds. Once again, the higher the number, the more dense the pad. The density can range in feeling. By using a pinch test between the top and bottom of the pad you can compare densities. There is foam all the way up to feeling like a large pencil eraser. The higher the better.

Try to stay away from rubber based products like a waffle print as they have been known to dry rot where hot water pipes run through the concrete subflooring. They also don’t provide any absorption for collecting water spills. In fact in a typical flood scenario, the water just continues to migrate further by saturating a greater area of carpet space.

It would also be wise to choose the right carpet for the right application. If you were born during Baby Boomer era, you would have ran into carpets that were made from polyester. Those fibers were dyed first before they were extruded as fiber. They never faded from the sun or bleach spills and lasted forever but were harder to clean.

Nylon came around and was softer to the hand and cleaned up better but spills could permanently stain the fibers and due to costs, generally come in lighter colors. Almost all darker colors will be more expensive to produce due to more dye in the process. More dyes prevented stains due to the lack of dye sites available.

Fourth Generation carpets removed the nuisance of static electricity when walking across a room and touching anything conductive to release a jolting shock.

Fifth Generation carpets involved the incorporation of stain resist carpets. The key to this technology was to create a transparent dye. Normally after dyeing half of the carpet’s dye sites in a light color the remaining dye sites would be open for stains once installed. The solution was solved by re-dyeing the remaining dye sites with a transparent dye. Dye sites are like skin pores on your arm.

Benefit:
If all dye sites on a fiber are filled, then no stains could penetrate immediately. This would give the end user time to remove the stain later even if it dried on in many cases.

The last point to consider is the primary backing of carpets. For a number of years, India exported to the United States jute which is what ropes are made of. An unfortunate deadly industrial accident involving chemicals at Union Carbide’s battery plant, cause strained relations between both countries and jute stopped being exported.

Jute backed carpets also occurred when they became wet from flooding. The natural fiber made of plant (organically)based material released a tannin dye similar to coffee and bled into the carpet’s surface; thereby causing it to permanently discolor the carpet and ruin it.

It was also a food source for mold and mildew and if not treated quickly, it would dry rot causing the primary and secondary backing to delaminate and destroy the carpet.

Since the mid 1980′s polypropylene backing has become the norm. It’s a tough as fishing line and can hold up to most abuse end users give it. It’s also cheaper to produce. In fact, 70 percent of all carpets involved in a clear water food damage loss can be dried, cleaned and re-engaged with no evidence of a pre-loss condition.

Good luck on your next carpet purchase as you now possess more knowledge than most of the carpet cleaners and retailers in the industry. And don’t forget to vacuum!